Matthew at Large

"A May-Day Dance" (1891)

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About This Text

This is the 10th in a series of articles about architecture and other subjects written in 1890 and 1891 by William Wordsworth Goodrich (1841-1907), professionally known as W.W. Goodrich, an architect who practiced in Atlanta between 1889 and 1894.

Goodrich briefly lived in Boise, Idaho from 1882 to 1883, and here, in 2 tediously long paragraphs, he paints an idyllic (and almost certainly fabricated) portrait of the Shoshone people of Idaho celebrating the annual return of salmon to the Snake River.

His description of the Shoshones strikes an admiring although occasionally condescending tone — not unusual for Goodrich — and conscpicuously omits any mention of the tribe's tenuous plight at the time: after years of fighting the seizure of their lands by White settlers, in 1875 the Shoshones were restricted by a presidential executive order to the tiny Lemhi Reservation along the Salmon River. The federal government, however, backed by the area's covetous settlers, wanted to force the tribe onto a different reservation at Fort Hall, more than 200 miles to the south. By the time Goodrich lived in Idaho, the Shoshones, cloistered at the Lemhi Reservation, did not have access to the Snake River, which all but discredits this story as one drawn from first-hand observation.

After years of failed negotiation, in 1907 the Shoshones were forcibly removed to the Fort Hall Reservation in what has been referred to as "Idaho's Trail of Tears". The Shoshones merged with the Bannock tribe, and today the descendant Shoshone-Bannock Tribes remain based on the reservation.

Although a fixture of popular imagination, the annual return of salmon to the Snake River is now in rapid decline, as a series of dams erected in the 20th century by the United States Army Corps of Engineers has decimated salmon populations in the river. So much for American progress, eh?

Originally published in the Atlanta Journal newspaper on May 2, 1891, this article has been lightly edited to correct for spelling and grammatical errors.


A May-Day Dance.

A Picturesque Indian Custom.
How It Is Spent By The Shoshones.
They Rejoice at the Return of the Delicious Salmon – Their Grotesque Revelings in Their Beautiful Home in the Mountains.

Written for the Journal.

Idaho, that gem of the mountains, was never more beautiful than at this time, in its gorgeous array of wild flowers. Seven moons had come and gone since the last salmon had descended the falls, speeding its way to the “salt chuck.” The Snake river, winds its sinuous way to the Oregon, whence it empties into the Pacific. Amid grand scenic changes, this mighty river, of several hundreds of miles in length, touching many states, is the outlet for the overflow of a vast territory of most fertile soil and most wondrous growths; here is the home of the best peaches, potatoes, apples and small fruits that our grand country produces. Their flavor is superb; nay, delicious in the extreme. Nothing grown in any part of our common country can excel them in flavor. Here the cayute is in his native element, the coyote and the jack rabbit run races. The gray wolf and grizzly bear snarl and treat each other with extreme discourtesy over the bones of a slain antelope or venison. Here the mountain lion and his mortal enemy, man, meet in desperate combat, and man is the winner. High upon the range flashes an instant, then out, the signal fire. Again it flashes, thence from adjoining peaks, thence along the whole range, presently high fires are burning in every direction. Thus the Shoshones show their joy and gratitude for the return of May; of its muck a muck from the “salt chuck.” Salmon are running, flashing beauties, whose scales glitter with many and varied colors of the rising sun, are easily speared as they dart over the riffles and through the shallow waters. The silent Indian medicine man follows up and down the stream making grimaces and gesticulating wildly to the Great Spirit his approval of the running salmon. Then comes the chief, in beads and feathers, in gaudy colors and buck-skin moccasins, trimmed out with beads, utterly silent, and as informal as a bronze statue, and as cold in gesture as yonder snow-clad peak. The falls of the Snake river are of perfect grandeur; Shoshone falls, so named after the Indians who live on the Snake, are of quartz, fluorspar, granite and sandstone. Occasionally thin seams of the precious metals are interlaced and intertwined in the different formations. In the river's bed are excellent placer mines of gold. Agates, amethysts and emeralds are in profusion, and when polished are beautiful in all the colors conceivable, and when cut present scenic effects that outrival any artistic effect of brush of any metal, however prettily worked or arranged. All along the banks of the Snake at various altitudes are lost rivers, varying from several feet above high water mark to hundreds of feet above water level. These rivers rise in the mountains and follow the canyons to the plains, thence flow underground for miles in the lava, which is spread all over the country in various thicknesses. And it is no uncommon sight to be traveling along over these lava plains, to see great holes just ahead of you, perpendicular and of from few feet to hundreds of feet deep with the rushing waters below rumbling and roaring, and seething and foaming. Many an animal and man has fallen into these places and been carried underground never to be seen or to be heard from again.

Slowly circling about the chief in concentric circles, led by the medicine man, were all the bucks. Breaking ranks, each for himself ran to his cayute and galloped away for a mile then stopped with backs to the chief in a circle. On came the Shoshone, dressed in buckskin, and all over her blanket were still gaudier colors than the chief, her face painted in stripes, circles and squares. At some distance behind her came her children still further behind; from out of each teepee came the squaws and their children. As they came up with the chief each threw before him a wild flower, and as the last child passed in review he waved his hands towards the eternal mountains and calling upon the Great Spirit poured out in the fervency of his soul's fondest desires praises to God for the return of May and of the run of salmon. After his prayer the pappooses and young children were seated about him on all sides, the grown daughters forming a circle about the children; then the squaws in a circle; then the young bucks; and at a given signal in rode the bucks straight at the chief, and at a pace that was furious, but just as they would ride over the ones about the chief they swerved, and rushing about in a circle, each brandishing his tomahawk, uttering the Indian yell of defiance to winter, of contempt for old boreas, and of joy at the coming of May. Then the squaws, hand in hand, danced before the chief;—and such a dance, and such grotesque actions, and such peculiar gyrations, and such can-cans;—and as their joyousness was becoming more boisterous the children took up the Indian refrains, their sacred music, and soon the whole tribe was a whirling mass of beings that you could not tell where the affair commenced or ended, so great were the contortions. At another given signal all again was as quiet as the grave; each wended his way to his teepee. At another signal all appeared at the outside of their teepees, and then the bucks, in single file, came to the chief dressed in feathers, gaudy ribbons, painted faces, in hideous stripes from their hair to their breech clouts, their legs painted in circles. Building a great fire from resinous trees, burrs and dry wood, all formed in the famous buck dance, that is so hideous and so full of contortions, grimaces and peculiar evolutions, finally winding up in complete exhaustion and absolute temporary uselessness of the body for any labor or any physical endurance. The squaws would have to pick up their lords and carry them to their teepees, so completely worn out were the bucks from the dance. Thus the noble Red man showed his appreciation of the 1st of May, and of the run of Salmon, his favorite food.

W.W. Goodrich